Nice little DIY projjy!
2.2mfd Non polarized* cap in a tin with a 100k bleed resistor, run the offending pedal output thru' it. If you wanted to be really audiophoolish about it use a 2.2mfd polystyrene cap.
I still have a quantity of 1.8muF 250V foil caps that were used in telephone master sockets (bell feed) if anybody wants a couple of freebies, PM with an address and I will post some.
*Of course you could MEASURE the pedals' output and see what the offset polarity actually is and use a conventional electrolytic but so few of you TA'ed buggers have a testmeter!
Re the amp "off bang", a 60watt PA I built last year sounded like the crack of doom (it did NOT of course have a standby switch!) . I found that a 0.047 cap across the switched side of the mains all but fixed this but NB! Such a cap MUST be the correct type, MUST be fitted by a tech and MUST be PAT'ed afterwards.
Another option, VALVE amps only! Is to fit a speaker shorting switch.
Dave.
If the pedal takes a standard +9v DC power input then it's very unlikely that the offset will be negative. Plus if you get it the wrong way 'round you just get a different sort of pop.Originally Posted by ecc83
You're with stupid. ▲
Yeah, I guess very few pedals are graced with NE5532's where the offset can go either way!If the pedal takes a standard +9v DC power input then it's very unlikely that the offset will be negative. Plus if you get it the wrong way 'round you just get a different sort of pop.
But then 741's are good enough for guitars!
Dave.
Been there done that. Really quite impressive when a cap explodes!If the pedal takes a standard +9v DC power input then it's very unlikely that the offset will be negative. Plus if you get it the wrong way 'round you just get a different sort of pop.
As has been said, try using a different resistor on the LED (easiest first to disconnect it completely and see if it makes any odds) or sticking a pull down resisitor on the effect in. If you still have no luck you're pretty much buggered. Everyone wants true-bypass...
I don't.
It's almost a deal-breaker for me these days. Just causes too many problems.
"Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand" - Homer Simpson
http://www.facebook.com/TheAngelConversations
PASSIVE!!! Bypass will still pop if there is DC anywhere in the line. A proper buffer front and back can isolate any such DC. As for progressive level drops it is not beyond the wit of man to put 100 "buffers" in a line and have Vin match V out within 0.1dB,where there is the will?
Passive bypass switches on studio equipment such as compressors are silent and do not disturb levels or frequency responses because it is ASSUMED that source and sink are DC free and very low and high Z out and in. A guitar+ pedal string is anything but!
Dave.
Ah, but using stone-age switching technology - and definitely no buffering - is the only way to get that "guitar plugged straight into the amp tone that we all want".
The odd thing is that there are people with names like Pete Cornish, Bob Bradshaw and Roger Mayer who know this, and build equipment that rock stars who can afford any gear they want use, and still the cork-sniffers don't want to know...
"Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand" - Homer Simpson
http://www.facebook.com/TheAngelConversations
These are the sort of people that would suggest homeopathy for a broken leg.Ah, but using stone-age switching technology - and definitely no buffering - is the only way to get that "guitar plugged straight into the amp tone that we all want".
The odd thing is that there are people with names like Pete Cornish, Bob Bradshaw and Roger Mayer who know this, and build equipment that rock stars who can afford any gear they want use, and still the cork-sniffers don't want to know...
Dave.
Still learning the terminology but have we covered contact suppressors ?
No because they are a capacitor or a capacitor in series with a resistor and are used to reduce arcing, mostly when switching DC and we don't WANT any DC!
In any event bridging an o/c contact with a cap or cap+r stops it being an o/c!
It is however usual to shunt a relay coil with a diode and possibly a C or CR "snubber".
Dave.
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