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Thread: Damn Pedal Pop

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecc83 View Post
    No because they are a capacitor or a capacitor in series with a resistor and are used to reduce arcing, mostly when switching DC and we don't WANT any DC!

    In any event bridging an o/c contact with a cap or cap+r stops it being an o/c!

    It is however usual to shunt a relay coil with a diode and possibly a C or CR "snubber".

    Dave.
    Hmmm so we have already covered bleed resistors and caps but a unit that already has both intergrated is something completely different ?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICBM View Post
    Ah, but using stone-age switching technology - and definitely no buffering - is the only way to get that "guitar plugged straight into the amp tone that we all want".
    Well I get the "guitar plugged straight into the amp tone" by plugging straight into the amp......

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpfamps View Post
    Well I get the "guitar plugged straight into the amp tone" by plugging straight into the amp......
    So do I .

    The problem is people who want that tone with effects pedals in between, and think that it's achieved by having everything "true" bypass - because that must do so, it's called "true" bypass. (You'll know this already, but for anyone else who doesn't know... no it isn't.)

    Personally I don't really care. If I can get the sound I want with the pedals in line, I'm happy with that whether they're "true" bypass or not.

    And in fact, if you want the exact same sound when you have pedals in line as without, you don't want "true" bypass, you want a system which makes the pedals "look like an amp" to the guitar and "look like a guitar" to the amp. Which requires buffering...

    Although if you're playing in your bedroom with a total length of under about 15 feet of boutique low-capacitance cable, true bypass is probably not far off the same thing.

    But on stage... give me a Boss pedal every time. No pops, no cable tone suck, and they don't break.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICBM View Post
    So do I .

    The problem is people who want that tone with effects pedals in between, and think that it's achieved by having everything "true" bypass - because that must do so, it's called "true" bypass. (You'll know this already, but for anyone else who doesn't know... no it isn't.)

    Personally I don't really care. If I can get the sound I want with the pedals in line, I'm happy with that whether they're "true" bypass or not.

    And in fact, if you want the exact same sound when you have pedals in line as without, you don't want "true" bypass, you want a system which makes the pedals "look like an amp" to the guitar and "look like a guitar" to the amp. Which requires buffering...

    Although if you're playing in your bedroom with a total length of under about 15 feet of boutique low-capacitance cable, true bypass is probably not far off the same thing.

    But on stage... give me a Boss pedal every time. No pops, no cable tone suck, and they don't break.
    The "fault" starts of course with the silly electrical properties of the passive electric guitar. As the Irishman said when asked the way to the airport, "If oi were you sir, oi wouldn't start from here!"

    Dave.

  5. #25
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    What's really annoying is that the silly electrical properties of the passive electric guitar, combined with a traditional length of fairly high-capacitance shielded cable, run into a DC-coupled triode valve input stage, create a kind of tonal magic that's difficult to reproduce if you make things more sensible!
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICBM View Post
    What's really annoying is that the silly electrical properties of the passive electric guitar, combined with a traditional length of fairly high-capacitance shielded cable, run into a DC-coupled triode valve input stage, create a kind of tonal magic that's difficult to reproduce if you make things more sensible!
    Well! in fact IC, my recent reading tells me that the first triode stage of an amp rarely gets driven hard enough directly from a guitar to contribute much to the tonal qualities!

    The almost universal 68k stopper and about 120puff input capcitance form a useful RF filter function but do not reach down into the CD spectrum leave alone a guitar speaker.

    Dave.

  7. #27
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    That is true, but it doesn't quite seem to sound like that in practice for some reason! If you deviate far from the unbuffered passive electric guitar, ~1nF cable, 1Meg input impedance, DC-coupled triode (34K grid stopper, not 68K - two 68s in parallel in the usual scheme! I know it makes bugger-all difference really ), 120pF capacitance arrangement, it doesn't quite sound as good. I wish I knew why!
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  8. #28
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    I had a few pedals that would pop when switched on. For whatever reason, this went away when I swapped a daisy chain power connection for the isolated expensive voodoo power thingy. I'm presuming those with a more comprehensive understanding of electronics might be able to explain why, but for the time being, I'm happy to believe it's because of the external combobulators and carry on playing

  9. #29
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyburgo View Post
    What a complicated means of fixing something that wasn't broken in the first place.

    I can see the point on old mechanically-switched pedals, but on a Boss or Ibanez? Ridiculous.
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