Zoom 707 II loose jack inputs

[VS1]

I have a Zoom 707 II which I use for practicing on my travels, trouble is the connections on both the input and output jacks are loose and the sound keeps cutting out. Any tips on how I can fix this, btw I have checked and it is the Zoom unit and not the cables / guitar / amp!

[ecc83]

I have a Zoom 707 II which I use for practicing on my travels, trouble is the connections on both the input and output jacks are loose and the sound keeps cutting out. Any tips on how I can fix this, btw I have checked and it is the Zoom unit and not the cables / guitar / amp!

Are jack sockets secured to the front panel by nuts? If not this will be a recurring problem and it really is cheapo personified and an all to common practice these days (I even read of a poor soul with this problem on a MOTU AI and he seemed to getting little help about it) .

The unit will have to come apart and the PCB pins on the jacks resoldered. The situation can be improved by beefing up the tracks with 22gauge solid wire but were it mine I would also Araldite the jacks to the PCB, swearing never to buy Zoom again the while!

But I might be doing Z a disservice and there might be nuts. If so you still have to get it apart but this time tighten the nuts THEN solder/repair the PCB (would be better to remove jacks and start afresh but probably beyond noob skill?). Even so, lock the nuts with a weak glue, clear nailvarnish is excellent for this purpose (or PINK if you are that way inclined!).

Dave.

[ragingben]

I had a Zoom RT323 that I took apart last week as the left output jack only sometimes worked. Originally I had thought it was a dirty ocntact as my drum machine has taken a fair bit of use so I sprayed contact cleaner on it, which didnt work. I thought it would just be a smiple jack swap and although I didn't have a spare I figured I'd swap one of the others I don't use. Turned out the solder had litteraly cracked away from the PCB on the tip connection. This was clearly visible and although I added more solder (and remelted any dodgy looking joints while it was in bits) you could easily do this even with a fairly fat soldering iron if it is the problem and just remelt the existing solder. Worth a look with a multimeter set to continuity checker anyway if you have the tools about. It is likely if they are both doing this that something similar has happened over time.