That might be a bit outside my level of skill. :-)Originally Posted by frankus
Cool though.
I think I could paint that, it's a lot of prep.
My issue was I wanted to get the guitar looking okay and play it - I seem to spend too long on elaborate plans to make nice stuff and too little actually practicing.
Don't we all.
Honestly mate, I'd go to warmoth.com and buy a new body on sale from their showcase.
I've seen them as cheap as $295/£185.
You have to get it here but it is still going to be cheaper that doing a refinish on that body.
You'd likely get a nicer piece of alder, better weight etc.
You could sell the existing body to someone here and get most of your money back.
I know it sounds counter-intuitive but a piece of alder is pretty cheap for them and they do massive volume.
Refinishing is far more work than building a new body from scratch when you get down to it, esp with thick poly finishes that are difficult to get off.
If you aren't in a hurry then next year I'll be moving out to the countryside and will have a proper workshop including a spray booth and I'll need something to practice on.
Not entirely sure when though.
Yes, you get a much better class of anecdote there.Zenzepher, Don't take this the wrong way, but you're cautioning me against doing something based on annecdotal evidence you've known for less than 10 minutes.
I think I should have asked this question on UKGB
I think you'll find it's a bit more complicated than that.
Glad you agree
Oct, for that kinda money I think I'd contact the Jenny Family and acquire a closet worn Strat body from them.
Or buy an airbrush and explore the wonderful world or airbrush artistry (and play guitar later)
no worries, i've stripped (including stripping a MIJ body) and glued bodies back together before, it's not annecdotal it's something i have some experience in.Zenzepher, Don't take this the wrong way, but you're cautioning me against doing something based on annecdotal evidence you've known for less than 10 minutes.
I think I should have asked this question on UKGB
it was more an *if* it separates which certain agents are known to eat glue and plastic, especially higher grade strippers it might not be so easy to glue and clamp it perfect - wood can and does shift without a proper jig. *but these wern't clean breaks*
Last edited by zenzeypher; 13th November 2012 at 03:55 PM.
Thanks, the guys at UKGM said pretty much the same as you and others said.
I guess it's either:
1) Heat gun.
2) Nitromors.
3) More spray and denial
thought you might.
sand it smooth, spray and denial! you'll get a nicer finish without having to grain fill and all the other gubbins.
id mask off the neck pocket tho it is sits and plays nicely, don't sand or spray it..just leave it be.
if it has dents and dings be sure to fill and sand those flush too, you might get little tell tale signs in the finish after but it'll still look good.
I'm in the middle of a neck repair for a friends les paul and i'm in two minds to strip and refinish the neck or just patch repair...
forgot to add nitromours will fluff the wood up, I can't explain it... it'll just come out horrid.
[edit]
have you tried paint stripper on a small inconspicuous area? if it's automotive finish it might be acrylic which you should be able to remove with paint stripper jelly.
Last edited by zenzeypher; 13th November 2012 at 04:11 PM.
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