His work is good, fault diagnosis, repair etc. Particularly with valve amps, although has also repaired a couple of pedals for me too. Reasonably priced too. Also has a good stock of valves/spares/components. Will source unusual/obsolete parts for vintage gear if he's repairing. Tends to be busy, so don't expect repairs done while you wait!
This one is a moan: I used a guy in Stone in Staffordshire who is supposed to be top notch (and expensive). I took a tubeworks chassis to him with the circuit diagram, being a chassis he didn't have to strip down an amp or combo - just remove the pcb. He repaired tha fault, which was a couple of transistors - not output transistors and that cost £70. A lot of money but I knew he was expensive but good.
However: when I got the amp back I discovered that most of the pots were knackered to the point of being unusable so I had to strip the amp myslef and replace the pots.
Wouldn't you think some one charging that amount of money would have contacted me about the pots before putting the pcb back into the chassis?
The morale is make sure you know what you're paying for before getting work done!
Bluebell Audio - http://www.bluebellaudio.com/ his work is good, fault diagnosis, repair etc. Particularly with valve amps, although has also repaired a couple of pedals for me too. Reasonably priced too. Also has a good stock of valves/spares/components. Will source unusual/obsolete parts for vintage gear if he's repairing. Tends to be busy, so don't expect repairs done while you wait!
I am not in the public amp repairing business but I have been in retail electronics servicing all my working life, time served app'ship radio&tv C&G, so man and boy as they say!
So, a few points to customers when contacting tech's.
Obviously, name, addy, phone # mobil# Email#...but then start with make, model and serial number of the amp. If you should have a schematic bring a copy, nobody can have everything and there can be lots of variants.
Be VERY specific about the fault! "Dead" usually means "lights up but no sound"! if dead, say so, if not qualify! If the problem is intermittant it could take some time to find or even "bounce" after the guy thought he had found the trouble.
How did the fault arise? Did any fuses blow? Were they replaced.
Get a breakdown of charges, no one can give a penny or even pounds accurate estimate by remote but ask what 4 way re-valve and bias job would cost for an XYZ, that should tell you if you are staying on the line! Remember an ESTIMATE is just that, an informed guess!
Lastly. Remember, these guys have to live too! If you are fortunate to have a decent job, work out how much YOU would have to charge per hour to make your salary, and remember, in this regard the tech' is "smarter" than you and maybe deserves better pay!